Prober's Ideas

New field of research 1.5

2011-01-15T17:03:00.000-08:00

I have some joy today as I’ve returned to a line of research. This will be a quick memo blog. The first part ended with this blog. http://probersideas.blogspot.com/2010/06/new-field-of-research.html

The Changes
I made some major changes in my systems just to return to this matter. First to go, was the Gen3 electronics. In hindsight I couldn’t recommend them to anyone. IMHO, they suffer from EMI issues, among in general being a poor design.

Next to go was the PTFE insulator. I’ve replaced the hot end with a peek only compact hot end from MakerGear.

more to come in 2.0

The Jury isn’t out

2011-01-03T14:04:00.000-08:00

In 2010 the community received a wake up call in the Up printer. It wasn’t rocket science that was the wake up call. The basic ideas and concepts of the UP printer were all out there. It took the Up designers to fine tune the ideas into a project.

Parts of the community have learned from the UP printer. Quality and speed don’t have to be sacrificed for production.

2011 brings with it the hopes of continuous improvements in quality, and speed for our Repraps.

While some have come to dismiss the Prusa Mendel, they miss many of the features that make this simple design worthy of replacing the “Classic” Mendel. Let’s face the facts; the “Classic” Mendel is now an old design of 2008-09. The Prusa Mendel moves us forward late 2010 forward.

While many continue to argue the merits of the “Classic” Mendel vs the Prusa Mendel, they just need to catch up to the moving front, as the Jury has come back in. The replacement for the “Classic” Mendel is the Prusa Mendel.

Quick Temperature Hack

2010-12-19T11:52:00.000-08:00

One frustration with Reprap for me has been the fragile nature of the beast. Seems like I get one item fixed another item breaks on me. Such was the case with my thermistor.

I had rebuilt my hot end, and had my thermistor taped to the nozzle and it generally worked. Thought I had gotten up and running again, then the thermistor failed on me. It was my last one and I had a supply on order.

The problem I realized was getting readings off the nozzle itself.
The wires would get twisted among other issues I had with it. A better way had to be found with the materials at hand.

I attempted to take two washers and make a temp reading washer. It just didn't work right.

Failure

Then it hit me, the trusty Paperclip. The more I played with the idea the more ideal this became for a quick temperature hack or more.

The Trusty PaperClip

It can be reused, it’s modular
Can be turned to adjust the wires
The nozzle can be changed with no issues

Working Parts

All you need to do is pick the right size paperclip for your hot end.

Bonus!!! Need to see if your temp is working? Turn on your software and put your two fingers on the end of the paperclip and you will shortly find out if it’s working or not.

How it works

The small end of the Paperclip acts like a nut and can be screwed down to any level needed. Just make sure you use plenty of tape.

Wires Wrapped

Make sure the wires are fully wrapped as you don’t need any contact or shorts.

Finish Wrap

Finish wrapping the glass bead so you have one complete, taped up device.

Placement

Lock in the glass bead leaving the small space at the Paperclip top, to be used as a locking means.

Finished.

Finish off the device by taping down the locked in glass bead. You’re all done.

TEST
You are ready to test.

Whistles for Josef A RepRap Action.

2010-11-08T12:58:00.000-08:00

Repost of the Blog by Rick Pollack

"Josef Prusa - the Prusa in the Prusa Mendel - is giving a presentation at the TedX event in Prague on November 20th. He is printing 300 whistles to hand out to the attendees but he is up against the clock.

If you have the technology to print some whistles and you can have them in Prague by the 20th...let me know and I'll get you the shipping address..."

Update: Link to more info: How to send a whistle

3D Printed Cars & MDAR bots for Area 51

2010-11-04T11:58:00.000-07:00

Couple of news stories that might be of interest ….
3D Printed Cars May Be the Way of the Future and MDAR the new bots for Area 51 etc.

"Urbee, a two passenger car, is being designed by Kor Ecologic Inc., using Stratasys 3D printers. Kor Ecologic probably chose Stratasys because their printers are considered cheap and reliable; I know that they're reliable because I have seen them myself and I know what they can make. But cheap? If you consider a $14,900 cheap for a small printer, then sure, why not, but I can't imagine how much a large 3D printer capable of printing car parts could cost!"

==================================
Robots Invade Nevada National Security Site

"And it's in this spirit of optimism -- some might say naivete -- that technical whizbangs working for the Nevada National Security Site, formerly known as the Nevada Test Site, have unveiled the MDARS, short for Mobile Detection Assessment Response System. Call them what you want, they're robots. And they are now on the job patrolling sensitive parts of the sprawling desert facility.

"It thinks on its own, and in that regard it doesn't require the constant plume of intervention," said NNSA senior engineer Steve Scott."

First Impressions Gen6 Electronics

2010-10-07T10:03:00.000-07:00

This morning I was handed a set of the new Gen6 Electronics manufactured in the Netherlands by Mendel parts.com

I haven’t written much lately, and frankly this new “gift” to the RepRap community forced me to make the time available.

Most of the time I don’t like to buy electronic items on the first run. I like to buy when items come down in price, and have any bugs taken care of. When I reviewed the hype (in hindsight), of Generation 3 electronics I thought that I was buying a mature, bug free design. I’m going to be kind to MBI here and just say “not as advertised”.

At first look, Gen6 electronics truly can be advertised as “plug and play”. I will know much better when I hook everything up and start running.

Pics from the web site just don’t do this set justice. We are talking a quality board here. Just new I had to take some quick pics, and show the community what they haven’t seen yet.

I love when a product has some thought given to it. Truly, the optics are a Gem! Who ever thought of the endstop optics design, needs to be given real thumbs up! No fiddling around with solder, just plug and play, the real thing.

From these pics you can see its very comfortable size compared to a standard Gen3 extruder board..

Front and Back sides.

To sum up my first impressions; Gen6 is everything Gen3 should have been!

A wake up call !

2010-08-03T13:12:00.000-07:00

I was shocked this morning when I opened my email.
Let me digress for a moment to tell the story.

I’ve been on my quest to get a decent RepRap going. Seems each time I turn around Its another patch up job or a visit to the local hardware store (they know me now). With no Reprap parts available you have to “innovate” and make your own hacked up fixes.

Sometimes you get to the point of no return. You must ask for others for help as only a new printed RP part will do the job> Only way to make all the other hacks work. This was my case; I had a hacked up revised extruder that worked. Only problem, the Darwin x carriage would not do the job. It only had a very small dc motor on it, just couldn't handle the small weight. You see the part was an early Cast Reprap made out of Polyurethane. I’ve learned so much since I bought it.

Anyhow, I tried Emailing for some help to print out some parts. The end result would bring some much need strength into the project. Some people said they would help and never would reply to again to the emails. Some offered to build for a cost, no problem if it wasn’t an arm and a leg, I would have gone for it. In the end nothing came of it. With all the users in the community out there my only hope turned to posting in the forums. http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?95,51778 Posted on 7/15/2010,
Up until the time of this blog posting, not one email, or contact has come from that post. That was until today’s surprise email.

See a new firm with the UP Printer http://www.pp3dp.com/ just released a new 3DPriter to the Reprap community. They had an offer that I thought might be great to try.

http://pp3dp.com/index.phpoption=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=42&Itemid=56

Step 3. If you kindly provide your input to all the questions in the survey, we are willing to mail your 3D model to you only for the cost of mailing for our appreciation of your feedback.

So I looked up the old STL, done in AOI I believe, and sent off an email to them This was in late afternoon for me. Like many of the firms now days, I expected some game, or to be ignored as in my past experiences. To my shock in this mornings email
I received these beautiful jpegs. This UP printer firm means business, and is building good will!

Side note: I may have gotten lucky. Reviewing the jpeg’s shows that the reinforcements in the UP software have made one of the best,if not the Best Darwin x-carriages ever repraped.

New field of research

2010-06-26T10:19:00.000-07:00

Today I started a new field of research dealing with the “cooling zone” inside the insulator and below.

What I made up was a heat shield. My theory is that we have been concerned with the heat within metals; I wanted to deal with the unseen radiant energy.

My first tests tell me I’m on to something. I seem to have blocked some of the heat from the insulator and created a new mess of Radio interference.

The once working temp system failed in reading and providing power for heat, frankly it went nutz. So its time to do a complete rethink of the shielding of the wires and retest.

Poor man’s enclosure

2010-06-16T07:57:00.000-07:00

aka heated chamber, heated room

http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/06/wooden-overcoat.html

Another problem with ABS is the fumes. My Mendel extruder seems to give off more fumes than HydraRaptor's does, perhaps because the melt zone is much bigger, and the white ABS seems to smell more acrid than natural ABS. I did a build with a window open to get rid of the fumes but most of the parts then warped, presumably because there was no longer a buffer of warm air around them, but a cool breeze.

In an attempt to tackle both of these problems I built an MDF box around my Mendel.

In my case everything I’m working on is “experimental” and in the process of rebuilding. What was needed was a method to grow with my projects. The answer was simple. Build an enclosure out of clear plastic aka "Visqueen" film. Thick enough to do the job and hold up to use.

Lightweight, flexible polyethylene construction film offers economical all-weather protection indoors or out. Known as "Visqueen" film - a brand name, although this is a commodity plastic product.

Some quick thoughts/ideas:
1) Make a front folding flap and install a couple of magnets to lock the cover when U need it closed.
2) Your stepper motors produce heat, cool them and reuse the heat. Install a fan blade on the unused shaft side,FREE cooling/reuse heat. Many sub-ideas can come off this simple idea.
A) Like the back and forth of the stepper could be used to make a one way fan.
B) The free air movement can be used to vent out the fumes.

Give me some links with your projects off these ideas. Would enjoy seeing them!

Toothed, Bead ,Chain Belting …oh MY !

2010-06-02T10:13:00.000-07:00

Since our quest is to lower the cost and improve operation of our RepRaps I felt the need for an alternative belt to what’s currently being used.

Long ago on one of my parts quests I picked up some “Diamond Braided Rope” as a possible drive belt or maybe used in an emergency to fix a RepRap. My belief now is that it’s a very good replacement candidate. The numbers speak for them self. I recently ordered Tooth Belting @ $1.81 a foot, plus shipping, taxes etc. The Braided Rope I purchased cost only $1.00 for 10 feet of the stuff.

Further, this might be a superior product for RepRap as seen in the general specs.
¼” x 10'feet
Braided for Strength
100% polyester strands
Resists rot, mildew, oil, and gas
300lbs working capacity

On the minus side that Red & White is ugly and changes to a V type pulley system would need to be made. It’s made in China, so maybe a pure color is sold someplace.

One feature I really like is that the material is very RepRap like. Looking at the pic you can see that the manufacturer hot slices the material for packaging. This is very advantageous for us. Using a hot means we can melt the polyester to any part we might wish. If we wish a continuous belt I would just butt the two ends together and melt them. If looks or an added protection is needed, then put the seal inside some shrink tube and presto you have a dirt cheap continuous belt.

Another feature: This is round material and therefore makes it superior in looping compared to toothed belts.

Where to buy? I purchased these at Harbor Freight Tools Item number 96186. Also sure these are available at other locations.

“Mendula” Status

2010-05-24T20:27:00.000-07:00

For those who know this Star Wars movie: Vader announces “Perhaps I can find new ways to motivate you”.

I have received motivation from the strangest places. Nophead’s continual quality building examples have always been the mark to shoot for.

This project started out as a “winter build” project. It’s now near the end of spring and sometimes the project has been like living in the money pit, but there is much progress.

“Mendula” gets a new name today and becomes “RapBoy”

Makerbot Giveaway Entry #1

2010-04-22T17:42:00.000-07:00

"SHAKE POWERED"
EMERGENCY LED FLASHLIGHT
EMERGENCY SHAKE FLASHLIGHT WITH WHITE LED & WRIST STRAP US $7.50*
• NEEDS NO BATTERIES
• JUST SHAKE TO ENERGIZE LIGHT
• BRIGHT WHITE LED LIGHT
• WRIST STRAP

Shaker Flashlight: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989
Test print of Inner Case Housing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2736
Shaker Light Case designed to print on Makerbot: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2988

This is a great idea with some less than perfect quality Chinese manufacturing!

If memory serves I Paid closed to 10 US dollars for one of these “Shaker lights” plus tax. Buy them on Ebay cheap but you must pay the postage, it still costs. No batteries great, simple to keep around and use when needed.

Mine had a few “issues” the switch didn’t lock in right and then I dropped the light and the case got all screwed up. Generally I like the light and concept it just needs to be “personalized” with RepRap.

These make great personalized gifts. My hope with this project is to personalize the lights for areas of usage. Seems I have a bad habit of picking up the light and putting it in another place then end up looking for it when I need it. So the fix is make one that says “Auto” on it, one for Bedroom, kitchen etc.

Problems with the original design you can purchase: The magnet is locked in with a poor seal on the end. The seal isn’t glued; it kinda just locks in very poorly. I highly recommend A decent bit of tape to lock the seal. If the seal unlocks then the “inner works” moves out of position and the power switch won’t make the correct contact.

The power switch is a very simple mechanism. It pushes the metal contact down, makes contact and you have power. As this project is only to replace the casing we won’t address the issues at this time.

The mirror type mechanism is basically some reflecting foil around the led light. One flat piece of reflection does the job but could be improved on. From what I gathered of the design the idea was to give a little light near the top of the light as well as out of it. Serves no purpose other than look cool.

My first run on this project: covers attempts to make a “clone” very close to the original design. It might have worked, but I put out a test print and asked some questions found that making a copy on a Makerbot would push the machine to its limits. So last minute as my software skills improved, the decision was made to start from scratch again.

Overview: The updated design has two parts

1) Inner Case Housing: is designed to be the printed area to use the “Shaker drop in package”. Contents of a self contained shaker power system, led light, and power switch.

The critical measurement is making the “Shaker drop in” package” fit inside your replication. To make this easy for future versions I made and posted a “test print”
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2736

2) Outer Case Package: Contents of the Plastic Lens, Lens Cover, seal and “Outer Case Housing”

In this design we focus on the outer case of the design. We have an “Shaker drop In” package, contents of a self contained shaker power system, led light, and power switch. The inner works fits inside of the outer case and is locked in at the top.

My Hope: This someone buys and stocks ”Shaker drop In” packages. They should be dirt cheap to buy in quantity. Resell them in printer packs of say 6 or 12 units.

This is the perfect demo print for shows. Just print out a bunch of the “Outer Case Housings” maybe personalizes with “made on Makerbot” or some such.

At the demo personalize a name on the Lens cover and make a quick print.

Great as a giveaway and great for giving personalized gifts!

More, Fine details Updated later...

Electrically Conductive PLA

2010-04-12T08:02:00.000-07:00

I know the subject of my visit to the APEX expo might be getting a little old. It just was one of those times you had to be there to experience it, and the valuable contacts made.

One such contact was the chemist I met in one booth. Seems the firm he works for worked with various forms of plastic compounds including a super electrically insulating cousin of PLA.

Our conversation was about the RepRap project, making or printing pcb boards etc. So we talked about the possibility of removing the insulating properties of his material, and doping it to become electrically conductive. Can you say “Electrically Conductive PLA” to print out circuits? He took down his notes on the subject, and hopefully will follow up as a “Noob”

The seed has been planted. I know with all my other projects this must be passed on so others might water, and bring the process to maturity. My hope with this post is that enough attention will be gathered and Adrian and Vik will find the emails, keeping them from the spam bucket.

NO SPAM !

Essence of an Idea

2010-04-10T11:07:00.000-07:00

Last night I was making a second round with the various materials obtained this week at the APEX expo. What nagged on me was the excellent part in production I found at the show. My hope was adapting the part to use in the “V Extruder” project. The part had one major flaw that made it impossible to work. Then the fix for this flaw hit me! It was late in the evening and exhausted, I went to bed. Would deal with it in another day or so.

Saturday: Woke up this morning and to help me wake up I fired up the laptop to get my eyes in focus. Then I put a few words in Google, something from last night. It lead me to a complete, and “brand new” concept, and process.

So my plans for today are screwed. It’s going to be over 80 deg. F, bright and sunshiny. I should be out and about and enjoying the spring weekend. What do I find myself doing after several hours? Documenting the “new processes” for admission to the Patent offices, how sad.

I find myself tortured again! I suffer from the same mindset Thomas Edison suffered from। He used to take short power naps, and would wake up and have fixes or brand new concepts available to him when he awoke. What tortures me, is that in prior times, most of my new ideas were 5-10 years ahead of the technology to manufacture them.

The RepRap projects have been very good to me and my way of thinking। The focus now is on ‘manufacturing”। So to sum up what happened to me this morning….my mind overnight worked out the problem or fix from last night,when I went to bed.

I have about a dozen or so other projects RepRap related in the works. So I Google that word this morning it all came together !!! My mind had combined the ideas from one project, with the fix from last night, and presto a “brand new” concept and process.

By now I’m sure the “Open source” people are all fired up with me saying the word “Patent”. Not to threat, I have it all documented. Parts of this new concept and process will become open in the future. On the restricted side,the licenses pay to bring the major part of the technology to market. Under the documented timeline my hope is to bring something out within a year or less, or maybe I’ll just sleep on this?

Time to enjoy the weekend.

Welcome the Noob

2010-04-08T18:12:00.000-07:00

I’ve had the very good fortune this week to attend the IPC APEX EXPO. Featuring advanced and emerging technologies in printed board design and manufacturing, electronics assembly and test.

http://www.ipcapexexpo.org/html/main/default.htm

In past years a project like RepRap wouldn’t gain much interest. With the world economy in such a mess,the companies are all hungry. I found a great deal of interest in the RepRap projects, so expect a few noobies in for a peak!!!

Use IFF for Rep Rap

2010-04-08T08:24:00.000-07:00

The Interchange File Format (IFF)

Link to info and specs:
www.ibm.com/developerworks/power/library/pa-spec16

Y Iff ?
“One of the most disappointing lessons learned from IFF is simply that a pretty good standard can easily be ignored in favor of a huge variety of proprietary formats. A very large number of formats out there have carefully attempted to recreate just the basic functionality of IFF. In practice, this means that graphics programs are stuck supporting dozens of subtly incompatible formats, each of which has its own innovative set of quirks.”

IFF Official Specifications
http://www.fileformat.info/format/iff/spec/7866a9f0e53c42309af667c5da3bd426/index.htm

Recycler a New Approach

2010-03-24T10:28:00.000-07:00

I have a bunch of plastic for recycling building up and wish to use it for infill. So maybe this will help someone to run with some of the ideas.

Building on the post I made today: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?171,34188

What about using a meat grinder? Something that worked in progressive stages, so that large objects to be recycled and something like a tree shredder cuts them down to smallish chunks।
I was thinking along the same lines as you with the meat grinder along with the reuse of a few other kitchen tools। I put some time into the idea of using a "dumpling pan" and further a "pasta maker"। http://probersideas.blogspot.com/2009/11/view-to-extrude-2.html.

Attacking it with a milling bit gives fine powder of course।
I ruled this out a long time ago। KISS, this is the key IMHO The problem with cutting HDPE is it is one of those plastics that gets stronger when you stretch it until it is incredibly strong and very very thin.

Use as a starting point various temps, within progressive stages to reshape and reuse the plastics for infill। The device would operate kinda like how they crush cars down to a chunk। For our purposes, the plunger will push the plastic into an extruder to “reform” the plastic into tootsie roll size, or the preferred filament size rewound into a spindle।
If I had the time would build it:?

Some possible Crusher plunger mechanisms

Both the French fry cutter, and Can Crusher mechanisms are similar. Might be great as candidates to quickly prototype a working recycler.

CES 2010

2010-01-06T12:42:00.000-08:00

It's CES time again for me !!!

Alot of my interests are here this time. The show starts in like 24hrs and Makerbot should be here, looking forward to that booth. Some other tech goodies of note: LG's "metal foil" technology. On my list to see and test out.
http://ces.cnet.com/8301-31045_1-10424068-269.html?tag=mncol;title

Another booth on my list is a 3DFab service that does metal as well as plastic. Their news release is kinda confusing and I am not sure ATM if they have a printer of their own design or not?? 3D is the word this year at CES so maybe the hinted at 3Dprinters from HP etc will show, never know what kinda surprises, but it's all fun.

CNet has some decent live feed and general info....Highly recommended!
http://ces.cnet.com/

Mendula Has a Past History

2009-12-25T11:20:00.000-08:00

After a stressful search for parts yesterday I’ve probably sourced 98%. Today I’m relaxed and thought I’d look up background on the parts former owner. Surprised she has an excellent history (more posted on that later).

Now I know everyone’s going to look at the pic and say that’s not a Mendel. Right, Mendula wanted to be a Mendel, or even better yet a RapMan V3. But that was not to be. So she is a Darwin or more correctly an early laser cut RapMan.

Quick Idea: Rulez for the serious RepRaper

2009-12-24T08:01:00.000-08:00

As I review the documentation for assembly of a RepRap, many questions come to mind. As a new year approaches its good to review, rethink, redo. So I’ve come up with my list...

1) Focus on the end product the "Quality of the Build".
2) Vibration is a killer…. Less vibration equals higher quality finished builds.
3) No metal on metal contact, unless absolutely necessary Got a use for those scraps now!
4) Greater frame mass doesn’t necessary equal a stronger frame, and translate into a better build.
5) Weight balance of the frame design might be better than greater mass.
6) Top heavy vs bottom heavy designs? Better at least balance your side to side weight or your adding to the problem.
7) Why all this metal? The beauty of plastic is to combine parts for less assembly.
8) They make Nylon washers don’t they?
9) Why aren’t rubber or plastic type washers used with laser cut Acrylic parts,.... can you say crack?

Food for thought?

Mystery material discovered?

2009-12-23T12:40:00.000-08:00

What are the commercial 3D printers using for their build surface areas?

Well I’ve discovered the Dimension machines use a”glass foam build platen”.

Sounds a bit like fiberglass?

See Bolson materials Web site: http://www.bolsonmaterials.com/main.htm

RepRap takes a dark turn...

2009-12-12T16:00:00.000-08:00

Soon Another RepRap running (cross ur fingers).

Of late, I’ve read some real horror stories. So when I opened today’s first box of parts the only fitting name I could assign this project was dark like a son of Dracula. So with my first impressions “Mendula” becomes a work in progress. Warped parts and all !

I’ll get Mendula to work one way or another but it’s going to be a mean beastie.

Inventory time…..

5th Generation: What’s in a name?

2009-12-08T09:03:00.000-08:00

See http://http//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifth_generation_computer_systems_project

5th generation computing

"The term fifth generation was intended to convey the system as being a leap beyond existing machines."

What’s in a name?

For the RepRap community 5th generation Technology is adding more “intelligence” to the build process.

Quick Idea: Instant Proto PCB boards??

2009-12-03T10:48:00.000-08:00

Seen this screen printer advertised in the local newspaper. Have kinda kept in the back of my mind for a look see one day.

Well today was the day as looking for something else on Ebay I found the lazy mans way to “look see” and did a quick double click for the video. http://http//www.whatdoyudu.com/videos/default.aspx?id=3
The video is great and the system looks great for an Ebay price of $200 US.

Now if I had my RepRap up and running I could run with a lot of ideas. Just need to find the right conductive ink and maybe some different screens?

This manufacturer is very creative with re-spinning old technology into new products, and every thing made of plastic, hint, hint.
Die cutting – Embossing, Knitting– needlecrafts, electronic cutting.

http://http://www.provocraft.com/products/index.php

5th Generation Fixturing

2009-12-02T11:36:00.000-08:00

Fixturing = enhancement of the “insertion” process that builds composite parts on RepRap!

RepRap Build Modes: “Fill mode”, “Insulate mode”, “Track mode”

To Fixture and do “Fixturing” accomplished with several methods, via software or via software and enhansed hardware.

“Fixturing” Software can be intelligent,or Software can become intelligent with added hardware.

Example: We wish to use “Fixturing” on three of these pre-built parts.

We wish to do two things; Make the next build white plastic, and also incase the screws and nuts in plastic all the way up to ¼ “ from the top of the build. Enough to have one finished part and hold it with two nuts.

Via software we need the build “intelligent” enough to know of the various layer levels, and that we have two bolts and nuts installed.

Once the SW knows its stuff we only need align the part in the assigned “point of orgin”, lock it down and we are off and running.

The second method of “Fixturing” is a variation of the first example:

We add some Intelligence to the build process. In this case, we use the basic : “Fixturing” “Fill mode”. It should operate something like this: The original parts design is loaded up into Fixturing with the fill command saying Fill 1 ½” high.

Option: We could design the second half of the part and leave off the info about the screw and nut installed. Bring both parts into “Fixturing” under the fill command and the second half would become the fill part.

Operation:
Once the SW knows its stuff we only need align the part in the assigned “point of orgin”, lock it down and we are off and running. In this example we have added another part to the RepRap a Whisker. It adds intelligence to the extruder.

Whisker = a springy piece of thin metal wire, formed the metal side of the junction. When the Whisker makes contact with a level in the build it sends a signal to the processor to tell it, hey you need to move the axis! The Whisker can be a contact type, photo, radar etc.

The Fixturing SW will know that contact was made outside the circle of the whisker at point x and axis (?) should be altered. With this intelligence the build can be completed in easy order. If multiple parts are to be built the whisker intelligence can be saved and the next build would go faster.

Third method of Fixturing:

The part is locked down in the assigned “point of orgin”. The “Fill mode Scan” is used with the only parameter given to the SW is the need to Fill 1 ½” high. The whisker in this mode acts like a scanner and slowly builds an intelligence base to Fill and build.

I’m sure the various variations on this will become evident once applied.

5th Generation What is it?

2009-12-02T09:03:00.000-08:00

5th Generation RepRap Technology?

Currently its taken from 2005-Now to achive a level of quality operation with RepRap technology, with enhancements ongoing.

My hope is to kickstart, and bypass 1-2 generations of enhancements to the technology and achive 5th Generation technology. It can be done, just takes the time and will power to do it.

Taking my ideas and concepts and applying them ALL leapfrogs any current technologies. Apply them all directly to the current 3rd Generation “Mendel” design. Mendel becomes obsolete, with a new beast inside of it!

We made 5th Generation Technology without any major redesigns. No tool changer or second extruder needed.

Mendel becomes:
Vastly stronger, Smarter, Cheaper to build, and adds many new features in the upgrade.

5th Generation PCB 2D Layer

2009-12-01T15:15:00.000-08:00

Use of the 2D Insertion Layer

2D Insertion Layer = Flat Foil type builds made of conductive materials.

Sticking a 2D flat piece of material onto a RepRap build might contain some sticking issues with existing build material as new hot material is added. The Flat Foil type material(s) builds made of conductive materials might not adhere to the build. The problem has been addressed by the “Insertion process” for composite builds. This process was covered in detail in an earlier blog.

Example of making a working build:
Aluminum foil is a cheap, durable, and workable “2D Insertion Layer” material. We can obtain other foils from “Craft Stores” etc. but IMHO is a great starting point.

1) Our PCB board design will contain its first build layer the “Insulate Layer”.
2) our build will contain several “Assembly connections”.
3) Our “2D Insertion Layer” is placed on the “Insulate Layer”. To lock the foil firmly on to our “Insulate Layer” we use a two step process. We take either “Internal connection” materials i.e. paper clip wire or “Insulated connection” material such as tooth picks. We press down the connections to lock down the foil firmly.
4) Next we make the product permanent by adding “Assembly connections”. This could build in or cover the paper clip or tooth pick materials. The foil is now locked in and other layers can be added until a full build is made.

Some detailed planning and testing will be required to make a high quality pcb build in production mode i.e. several copies. The concept however is sound. Stepper Motor assemblies cheap and easy to make.

The real beauty of this process is that once perfected, we can build in electrical items anywhere within plastic materials a Grand Hope!

5th Generation PCB Terms and Use

2009-12-01T12:37:00.000-08:00

Overview and new terms for use
I’ve received a great deal of interest in this so I’ve released a draft “drawing” and material, sorry about the mess.

IWire Rap

IWire Rap = Insertion Wire Wrap Process used by RepRap building.

Wire wrap = Wire wrap is a technique for constructing circuit boards without having to have a printed circuit board manufactured. It can be made by hand or by machine, and can be hand-modified afterwards.

Insertion process = process for composite builds. Information located in this blog

Wire wrap + Insertion process = IWire Rap

RepRap Build Modes: “Fill mode”, “Insulate mode”, “Track mode”

Layers
Insulate Layer =ABS plastic materials, non conductive layers
Insertion Layer = conductive materials.
2D Insertion Layer = Flat Foil type builds made of conductive materials.
3D Insertion Layer = Round wire type builds conductive materials.

Connections
External connection = Conductive Material open to contact outside world
Internal connection = conductive material in contact with other conductive material(s)
Insulated connection = ABS plastic materials used in “Insulate mode” in contact with other conductive material(s) used.
Assembly connection = ABS plastic materials used in “Fill mode” to assist build process the hold down during a build composite insertion materials. Contact with other conductive material(s) used Insulate mode.
Track connection = the pathway, track, or trace area where any of the Insertion Layers can be placed during a build.

5th Generation PCB boards using "3D Insertion Layer"

2009-11-30T16:33:00.000-08:00

Prior art

The idea of making a pcb board directly via a RepRap machine is not new.

One such idea or concept is to use a "Solder Paste Syringe".
The method is described http://http//reprap.org/bin/view/Main/SolderPasteSyringe

"It might apply solder around all the pads on the board where component legs need to be attached. Next, place components onto the board where they need to go. It may be possible to use a heat gun or some other device to melt the solder en-masse. If not, then theres always hand soldering. Which would definitely be easier if there were solder pre-applied where you needed it. "

While Solder paste has worked for some test designs its very complex method of making pcb boards. My preferred method is to use the “Insertion Method" or system, described in 5th Generation Strengthen Builds w “Insertion”.

Suggested reading and review Prober's Ideas blogs:
5th Generation PCB 2D Layer
5th Generation Fixturing
5th Generation Strengthen Builds w “Insertion”
5th Generation PCB Terms and Use

I’ve received a great deal of interest in this so I’ve released a draft “drawing” and material, sorry about the mess.

5th Generation PCB boards using "3D Insertion Layer"

We also use our friendly and available product the paper clip to make the 3D Insertion Layer interconnections wires. Any conductive material can work, small nails, tumb tacks

Double click this rough sketch to view it full size.

While A = two layers of paper clip wire with X showing a non-conductive layer between one layer.
While B = two layers of paper clip wire with X showing a conductive connection of the 2 layers of paper clip wire layer.

While C = one layer of paper clip wire with X showing a non-conductive opening at the top layer non-conductive plastic. A stiff wire contact from the outside makes a conductive connection via the open hole X.

While D = one layer of paper clip wire with X showing paper clip wire set within a non-conductive opening at the top layer of non-conductive plastic. A header clip can be installed via this paper clip wire.

Top view E = a top view of A-D listed above.

While AA = two layers of paper clip wire with X showing a non-conductive layer between two conductive lines of paper clip wire.

While BB = two layers of paper clip wire with X showing a conductive connection of the 2 layers of paper clip wire layer. At X, two paper clip wires overlap each other.

While CC = one layer of paper clip wire with X showing a non-conductive opening at the top layer non-conductive plastic. The open hole X allows a stiff wire contact from the outside.

While DD = one layer of paper clip wire with X showing paper clip wire set within a non-conductive opening at the top layer of non-conductive plastic. A header clip can be installed via this paper clip wire.

5th Generation Strengthen Builds w “Insertion”

2009-11-30T10:24:00.000-08:00

Make composite parts on RepRap!

Looking toward the future in building Enhanced RepRap machines it accured to me that another method might be used to “Strengthen” final builds. Inserts may well be the answer to this. For example a higher strength material could be “Inserted” into the build, then given the go signal to the printer and the final build finished. Software will become the key to implementation of this idea. This could be done several ways.

Several “insert areas” could be assigned in the raft build. Say we build a square rod of higher strength plastic (the more expensive kind). Using this concept, 4 insert points would be assigned on the raft where the “Strength Square” would be inserted into the raft insert points. Once inserted the “GO” is clicked on for the software.

Another way of doing things might be to build a part to a certain level and the system build software flash for an “insert” during the middle of a build. The part or parts could be “inserted” and the build continued until completion.

Using the “ (1)Insertion” System

We add new features such as:

1) Adding a different color part into a build.
2) Adding new materials for a “complete build” in one step.
3) Add a feature, move the table to the front load area for part(s) insertion.

“Insertion” materials for possible composite builds

Off the top of my head some cheap materials.

Unwound (2)Paper Clips anyone?

Toothpicks

Dental Floss a Great material!
How about a pre-wound coil or square using nylon? Dental floss is either a bundle of thin nylon filaments or a plastic (teflon or polyethylene) ribbon. Great material!

Springs anyone? Available in plastic, or metal

Paper Products

The list goes on…….have some ideas how about listing them.

(1) Insertion (genetics) From Wikipedia
In genetics, an insertion (also called an insertion mutation) is the addition of one or more nucleotide base pairs into a DNA sequence. This can often happen in microsatellite regions due to the DNA polymerase slipping. Insertions can be anywhere in size from one base pair incorrectly inserted into a DNA sequence to a section of one chromosome inserted into another.

(2) A paper clip is usually a thin wire in a looped shape that takes advantage of the elasticity and strength of the materials of its construction (usually steel or some other metal, but sometimes plastic) to compress and therefore hold together two or more pieces of paper by means of torsion and friction. Some other kinds of paper clip use a two-piece clamping system.
Recent innovations include multi-colored plastic-coated paper clips and spring-fastened binder clips.

A view 2 extrude #2

2009-11-28T07:53:00.000-08:00

or Food for thought?

Found these Kitchen items that are decent for parts.

The pasta maker (got to love Stainless Steel), sells for 16-29 used on US Ebay.

or this:

This scoop has a great, simple mechanism built into it.

It’s also make out of Stainless Steel.

Lots of “Fun” ideas can be tested with this!

A view to extrude….

2009-11-24T15:19:00.000-08:00

Well all this reading is having its effect on me.
Found myself in the department store looking at all kinds of products looking for items that might be useful to adapt to a 3D fabricator.

Being turkey week I went down the kitchen isle and found some really decent stainless steal items. Also some cheap digital temperature probes used now on a turkey could be useful. Lot’s of good stuff cheap that could be adapted.

Well, better focus first on getting a fab up and running, then build and test the ideas.

Quick Ideas: Extruder Innovation

2009-11-23T12:33:00.000-08:00

Problems within current “RepRap” designs
IMHO, some of the current designs have lost "consistency"

Maybe because it’s an “open” project? or
Maybe its trying to do everything without any constraints?

ATM many users are using 3mm diameter feed stock filament. Many are outputting finished material via the nozzle out to the build material in the area of 2mm or less. Some of the advanced users from my reading are using various methods to achieve the 1mm finished product output.

One such method used is to stretch the output material to achieve
1mm finished product. IMHO, consistency is lost in the process.

If users are moving in the direction to process smaller, and smaller output via the nozzle hole pre treatment, or more detailed preparation of the filament before hand to make higher quality output is needed.

The consistency fix?
My thinking atm is that consistency of build quality is being achieved and processed, within the extruder (whatever type used). What would be much, much better is to achieve the consistency at the feedstock or filament level. Eliminate the variations at the nozzle output to build level. Thereby eliminate the pressure within the extruder design. Why try and squeeze 3mm feed filament in and try and out put “finished” at 1mm? Pre-process the 3mm and re-spool the filament into a standard 1mm feedstock to the extruder head. That’s a 3>1 reduction making a lighter less stressed and consistent quality extruder.

Other benefits:
Use up dead space within “RepRap” designs.
Make available different colors and kinds of material at a twist of a knob. (have a design to put yet to paper)
Recycle I love the idea of using plastics around the house and recycle them into something else that can be used. Saw somewhere a device to take strips of soda bottles and feed it into the extruder, great idea! Ok this is design is done, now take this concept and add my idea and you have trash to 1mm feedstock ready to be used when needed.

I have about a half a dozen other ideas building off this simple concept and am sure this will open up some new doors to innovation.

My writing style

2009-11-23T12:26:00.000-08:00

Hope you folks don’t mind my writing style. My time becomes increasingly more valuable to me each day. Getting lost in the process is my “good grammar” hehhe.

The choice had to be made: Output the ideas and concepts in a blog very quickly or worry about grammar. I chose the latter.

Quick Ideas: Open the E-Door

2009-11-22T11:35:00.000-08:00

Building on the last post "Quick Idea E-circuits", we move on to a few quick ideas on what we might do with the E-circuits.

IDEA: Build our own LED's
IDEA: Build our own LCD's
IDEA: Build our own OLED's

Once this "E-Door" is open all types of new projects and ideas are open

Quick Ideas: E-Circuits

2009-11-22T11:07:00.000-08:00

Been reading and watching videos dealing with Makerbot, RepRap etc. Great group of people and it looks like some of my crazy ideas might be helpful.

Problem: Looking for a way to build electrical circuits via a bot. The methods of choice seem to be melting solider etc.

Idea: (KISS) Keep it simple, electronic ink is the way to go. Saw the early work done by E-Ink (Former Motorola), and others. The basic idea is to print conductive paths with conductive ink. This can be accomplished via any known printing method. For this 3D printer project, the ink jet should more than do the job.

This this idea workable? Yes

Many brand new products are coming off the line using this technology.
E-readers, and a new technology I can't wait to purchase and watch TV on, OLED.

The beginning….

2009-11-22T10:54:00.000-08:00

Today I found a new group of "Thinkers", much like myself. They love to tinker with new ideas, mechanics, electronics etc. The common goal being to take "ideas" with the aid of an "Open" 3D system and transform the ideas into a 3D build form.

As my German friends would say "Fantastish"!